Festival

Wine and Chestnuts with A Volcano View

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Etna Eruption July 30, 2011; Photo credit: gnuckx / Foter.com / CC BY
Etna Eruption July 30, 2011; Photo credit: gnuckx / Foter.com / CC BY

Zafferana Etnea is a town on the eastern slopes of Mount Etna in the Catania province of Sicily. Etna is Europe’s highest active volcano and dominates the landscape of Eastern Sicily. This weekend the hamlet of Sarro within Zafferana Etnea is hosting their 25th annual wine and chestnut festival as part of their Feast of San Martino. Wine and chestnuts are the ritual food and drink to celebrate St. Martin and during Roman times chestnuts were eaten by shepherds and referred to as “Jupiter’s acorns”.

Fresh Chestnuts Photo credit: it1315922 / Foter.com / CC BY-SA
Fresh Chestnuts; Photo credit: it1315922 / Foter.com / CC BY-SA

There is an established tradition of this festival that offers all attendees free pasta and chickpeas but the offerings don’t stop there. On Piazza Padre Russo, the heart of the festivities, from 6:30 pm into the night there will be opportunities to purchase roasted chestnuts, sausage and homemade cakes. In addition, organized games and evening entertainment along with a raffle organized by a non-profit with proceeds benefiting the poor during the upcoming holiday season.

Piazza Zafferana Etnea by Day Photo credit: Leandro's World Tour / Foter.com / <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/
Piazza Zafferana Etnea by Day; The Baroque-Style Chiesa Madre to the Right; Photo credit: Leandro’s World Tour / Foter.com /

The Zafferanesi are resilient, rebuilding their town multiple times after angry eruptions of Etna over several hundred years. The town is a popular stopping off point for tourists on their way to the Park of Etna. Etna’s eruptions have provided very fertile agricultural land that supports the cultivation of grapes, almonds, citrus fruit and a variety of vegetables.

Piazza Zafferana Etnea at Night; Photo credit: Ask@Net / Foter.com / CC BY
Piazza Zafferana Etnea at Night; Photo credit: Ask@Net / Foter.com / CC BY

The nearby town of Sant’Alfio has a huge 2,000-4,000 year old tree called “Castagno dei Cento Cavalli” (the chestnut tree of 1,000 horses). Legend has it that this tree protected Queen Jeanne d’Anjou, Queen of Aragon, and her retinue of 100 knights during a terrible thunderstorm. It is the subject of various songs and poems and had a circumference of 190 feet when its measurement was recorded back in 1790.

Comune di Zafferana Etnea

Thanksgiving: Introdacqua Style

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Introdacqua. Photo credit: heymrleej / Foter.com / CC BY-SA
Introdacqua. Photo credit: heymrleej / Foter.com / CC BY-SA

Introdacqua is a town in the Abruzzo Region of Italy, Province of L’Aquila, situated on a hill between the Contra and Sant’Antonio valleys. It dates back to medieval times and has a medieval tower dominating its landscape. The tower was used as a watchtower between Abruzzo and Naples in the medieval period when it was a fiefdom of the Trasmondi family. Loosely translated as “where the water comes in”, Introdacqua is a member of the “Borghi piu belli d’Italia” club (Most Beautiful Villages in Italy) and has been lucky to escape the major earthquake damage befallen its neighbors in recent years.

Introdacqua by night. Photo credit: digitalWestie / Foter.com / CC BY
Introdacqua by night. Photo credit: digitalWestie / Foter.com / CC BY

Thanksgiving begins with a blessing of the crops and tractors followed by a parade of floats and musical groups throughout the village. Though it is an ancient tradition of tribute to the land and crops that sustained them, the festival has been rediscovered and is now in its 10th year. Thousands will descend upon the town this Sunday, November 8th to sample the authentic local food, watch the folk musicians, and discover the local flavors of the area. Food carts will be set up to display local products such as: extra-virgin olive oil, salami, cold pork meats, cheeses, red garlic, chickpeas and a multitude of sweet desserts. If you are not lucky enough to be staying in Introdacqua, it can be easily reached by car in about two hours from Rome.

Assorted confetti candy. Photo credit: Accidental Hedonist / Foter.com / CC BY
Assorted confetti candy. Photo credit: Accidental Hedonist / Foter.com / CC BY

If you’ve ever been to an Italian wedding, chances are you were greeted at your place setting with a small tulle bag of confetti; not the paper type, the almond type. Used to celebrate significant unions and births, the candy coated almond treats are used as a thank you to guests and come in many different colors, each with its own meaning. Casa Pelino has been making confetti in nearby Sulmona since 1783 but the family got their start in Introdacqua.

Festa del Ringraziamento 2015

Borghi piu belli d’Italia

Confetti Mario Pelino

Fair of the Dead! Halloween Weekend/All Saints & All Souls Days Umbria

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Skulls and Bone; Photo Credit: Photo credit: Gabriele Asnaghi / Foter.com / CC BY-SA

Celebrating Halloween in Italy with costumes and trick-or-treating is becoming more popular each year. They have imported the American “Halloween” through television, pop culture and films only recently. Italian children don’t shout “trick or treat?” they shout “dolcetto o scherzetto?” after knocking on neighbors doors dressed as little witches and goblins. This “new” event precedes the traditional Italian Holidays of All Saints Day (Ognissanti) and All Souls Day, November 1st and 2nd respectively. Italians honor deceased family members on these annual holidays by visiting their graves, placing flowers and offering prayers.

Piazza Novembre; Photo credit: Perugiacity.com / Foter.com / CC BY
Piazza V Novembre; Photo credit: Perugiacity.com / Foter.com / CC BY

In a town known more for its Perugina Baci chocolate treat and educational institutions, Perugia’s Fiera dei Morti has been in progress since medieval times. Written evidence of its existence dates back to the year 1260 when it was called the “All Saints Fair”; however, it’s been called the “Fair of the Dead” since the 1700’s. It is considered one of the most important fairs in the area and was started to exchange agricultural livestock and products before winter arrived but has developed into over 500 vendors selling local crafts and sweets. You can find everything from housewares to clothes to spices in stands found in the Pian di Massiano, Piazza del Bacio and the historical center.
The festival Runs November 1st – November 5th. If you are in the area and recovered from your chocolate hangover acquired at last week’s Eurochocolate festival make sure to try local specialties “Beans of the Dead”, Torta al Testo (traditional bread of Perugia) and the tibia shaped cookies known as stinchetti made especially for I Morti.

Fiera dei Morti 2015 Perugia

Fiera dei Morti Perugia 2015 Poster
Fiera dei Morti  Perugia 2015 Poster

The Fabulous Feast of the Thrush – Montalcino, Italy

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Photo Credit: ViaggioRoutard / Foter / CC BY
Trumpeter in Costume During the Parade Procession Sagra del Tordo, Montalcino – Photo Credit: <ahref=”https://www.flickr.com/photos/viaggioroutard/22289123532/”>ViaggioRoutard / Foter / CC BY

Since 1958 the last weekend in October is marked with pageantry, camaraderie, competition and food in the southern tuscan hilltown of Montalcino.  I attended the Sagra del Tordo (Feast of the Thrush) in October, 2011 and was not disappointed.  From the first drumroll and blasts of trumpets, through the parade of about 150 locals and the archery competition, there wasn’t a dull moment.  It is evocative of hunting traditions of the past when hunters and falconers would go into the woods, bring back their spoils and everyone would feast, noblemen and commoners alike.

Piazza del Popolo, Montalcino - Photo credit: yashima / Foter / CC BY-SA
Piazza del Popolo, Montalcino – Photo credit: yashima / Foter / CC BY-SA

Surrounded by the golden, late fall sunshine and colorful leaves that mark autumn in this region we established our place on the parade route and watched as participants paraded through town making various stops along the way to the fortress.  It was the first (and only) time I have ever been up close and personal with two ghostly Chianina bulls; they dwarfed me as they walked past pulling a cart, I don’t even think I came up to their shoulders!  The Chianina produce the Bistecca Fiorentina, a massive steak served throughout the region and Italy.

Chianina Cow & Calf - Photo credit: Monica / Foter / CC BY
Chianina Cow & Calf – Photo credit: Monica / Foter / CC BY

Montalcino is split into four neighborhoods (quartiere) each with their own tribal colors: Borghetto (white and red), Pianello (white and blue), Ruga (yellow and blue) and Travaglio (yellow and red).  During the celebration two archers from each quartiere compete in an archery competition.  The losers suffer insults and jokes of the winning team for the next year.  Each quartiere also has a food booth in the main park “Giardini Impero” outside of the Fortezza serving several courses of food; you can pick and choose what you buy from each and eat at the picnic tables provided.  The food is great, inexpensive and best of all, local.  Let’s not forget, this is the home of the famed Brunello di Montalcino, a hearty Tuscan red that’s produced with 100% sangiovese grapes.  Try the wine at one of the food stands or venture into one of the many tasting rooms located around town and at the Fortezza.

Photo credit: mava / Foter / CC BY-SA
Fortezza, Montalcino – Photo credit: mava / Foter / CC BY-SA

Pro Loco Montalcino Tourism

Sagra del Tordo 2015 Full Itinerary

Truffles are in the Air! The 85th Alba International White Truffle Fair

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Piemonte Region of Italy; Photo credit: Irene Grassi (sun sand & sea) / Foter / CC BY-SA
Piemonte Region of Italy; Photo credit: Irene Grassi (sun sand & sea) / Foter / CC BY-SA

Truffles and wine are gems of the Piemonte region of Italy. From the end of September thru mid-November events are held in Alba to honor the White version of these prized tubers. This festival is in its 85th year and is jam-packed with events. If you’re looking for an experience combining food, wine and folklore, you will not be disappointed.

White Truffle Risotto - Risotto al Tartufo Bianco Photo credit: Giorgio Montersino / Foter / CC BY-SA
White Truffle Risotto – Risotto al Tartufo Bianco Photo credit: Giorgio Montersino / Foter / CC BY-SA

Alba is in the area of the Piemonte known as the Langhe; displays at the festival boast not only the excellent truffles and wine but the cheeses, egg pastas and sweets common to this area. During the festival there is a truffle market at Cortile della Maddalena each weekend where you can smell and buy truffles from reputable vendors. The truffles are hunted by dogs who smell and scratch just under the surface to alert their handlers to their find. Truffles are not cheap and are used in a variety of ways in the kitchen.

Paglio degli Asini 2015; Photo credit: Giorgio Montersino / Foter / CC BY-SA
Palio degli Asini 2015; Photo credit: Giorgio Montersino / Foter / CC BY-SA

The Alba International Truffle Fair is as entertaining as it is tasty. Food and folklore events are scheduled each weekend to fill your belly and your spirit. The folklore events started September 26th with The Investiture of Podesta; participants in medieval costumes re-enacting tributes to the Lady of Alba and the Podesta (magistrate who governs the city). On October 4th the medieval theme continued with a donkey palio, the “Palio degli Asini”, run by the 9 districts of Alba in a traditional mock of Asti’s horse palio. This weekend each district will transport you back to medieval times with games and re-enactments staged throughout.

Borgo San Lorenzo - Alba; Photo credit: Irene Grassi (sun sand & sea) / Foter / CC BY-SA
Borgo San Lorenzo – Alba; Photo credit: Irene Grassi (sun sand & sea) / Foter / CC BY-SA

The highlight of the weekend is the “Baccanale del Tartufo”; each district uses the truffle theme to develop a delicious menu unique to them. Review the menu and pick which of the 9 districts whets your tastebuds and partake in a truffle themed dinner (the menu is posted below). To learn about the other events and tastings offered this weekend and though mid-November at the festival click on the link below and select “Calendar”. Mangia bene!

Event Website: Fiera del Tartufo 2015

Menu Il Baccanale del Tartufo: http://www.fieradeltartufo.org/cgibin/2015/1444555045B_depliant-borgo-si-rievoca_2015_081015.pdf

White Truffle - Tartufo Bianco; Photo credit: Blue moon in her eyes / Foter / CC BY
White Truffle – Tartufo Bianco; Photo credit: Blue moon in her eyes / Foter / CC BY

Festival of Chefs in Abruzzo

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Typical Abruzzo Lamb Dish Photo Credit: Photo credit: Danny Nicholson / Foter / CC BY-ND
Typical Abruzzo Lamb Dish Photo credit: Danny Nicholson / Foter / CC BY-ND

The 37th edition of the Rassegna dei Cuochi (Festival of Chefs) returns to Villa Santa Maria in the Chieti Province of Abruzzo this weekend. Known as “La Citta dei Cuochi” (City of Chefs), this town has produced chefs turning out delicious dishes around the world for heads of state and mere foodies alike. This is no surprise since its home to the highly touted cooking school Istituto Alberghiero Villa Santa Maria.
On the second weekend of October each year, chefs return to this village to meet, perform cooking demonstrations and of course, enjoy the food. The event is paired with religious celebrations this evening in honor of Saint Francis Caracciolo, patron and protector of all cooks in Italy. The weekend program lists several cooking demonstrations in the afternoon and evening with booths setup for food tasting and local products.
Two of the highlights of this festival are the Saturday night feast and the competition for chefs. On Saturday night at 8:00 PM there is a large dinner served on what seems like a mile of tables in the Old Town. On Sunday, fifteen chefs are invited to participate in a competition juried by foodies from around the world. Winning this competition gives the victor a prestigious entry on their resume and a substantial cash prize.

Town Link & Festival Program: Villa Santa Maria

Map: Villa Santa Maria, Chieti, Abruzzo

Cooking School: Istituto Alberghiero Villa Santa Maria